Valparaíso is famous
for its nightlife, especially its bohemian pubs and bars where
poets, writers, tango aficionados, sailors, university students,
and just about everyone else spend hours drinking, dancing,
and socializing well into the early morning hours. In fact,
most restaurants and bars do not adhere to a set closing hour,
but instead close "when the candles burn down."
Most places serve snacks,
especially bars and pubs that operate as restaurants by day.
Cinzano, facing Plaza Aníbal Pinto on Calle Esmerelda
(tel. 32/213043), hosts dinner dances and spotlights tango music
and singers in a wonderful, early 20th century ambience. La
Columbina (tel. 32/236254) is frequented by the 30-and-up crowd
for its comfortable ambience, live jazz and bolero music, and
view of the glittering lights of Valparaíso that spread
out below; take a cab or the funicular Ascensor Peral and walk
down Paseo Yugoslavo.
A few hip spots run along
Errázuriz and include Barlovento, Errázuriz 1156
(tel. 32/595723), one of the few modern bars in town, designed
with halogen lights and metallic tables; La Piedra Feliz, Errázuriz
1054 (tel. 32/256788), has wooden floors and a tranquil atmosphere--until
they fire up live music in the evening from Tuesday to Sunday;
and the more traditional Roland Bar, Errázuriz 1152 (tel.
Ecuador Street is packed
with discos and bars, and although its rank as the in spot has
waned, it's still a popular area, especially among the 20- to
40-year-old crowd. Try Bar Azul, Ecuador 167 (no phone), which
has candlelit tables, jazz on weekends, and, as the name states,
a blue interior; there's also Bar Emile Dubois, Ecuador 144
(tel. 32/213486), an offbeat bar/disco whose name is an homage
to the first person to die under capital punishment in Chile,
and where drinks come with names like strangulation.
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