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Valparaiso: Attractions

La Sebastiana

La Sebastiana is one of poet Pablo Neruda's three charming homes that have since been converted into museums honoring the distinguished Nobel Laureate's work and life. Neruda usually spent New Year's here for the spectacular firework display he was able to view from the home. La Sebastiana is exceptionally enjoyable because the staff allow visitors to wander about freely without an accompanying guide.

There are self-guiding information sheets in a variety of languages that explain the significance of important documents and items on display, as well as Neruda's whimsical collection of eccentric knickknacks culled from his journeys through the Americas and abroad. Neruda called himself an "estuary sailor"--although terrified of sailing, he nevertheless was fascinated by the sea, and he fashioned his homes to resemble boats, complete with porthole windows. A cultural center has been built below the house, with a gallery and a gift shop. Don't miss this fascinating attraction.

The walk from Plaza Victoria is a hike, and you might want to take a taxi. From Plaza Ecuador there's a bus, Verde "D." Or you might opt to take La Cintura, or "The Belt," a bus route that takes riders up and down and around the snaking streets of Valparaíso and eventually stops a block or so from Neruda's house (be sure to tell the driver that's your final destination because the bus continues on). The bus leaves from Plaza Echaurren near the Customs House (La Aduana), and is called Bus Verde "O."

Museo Naval y Marítimo

This fascinating museum merits a visit even if you do not particularly fancy naval and maritime-related artifacts and memorabilia. The museum is smartly designed and divided into four salons: the War of Independence, the War against the Peru-Bolivia Confederation, the War against Spain, and the War of the Pacific. Each salon holds interesting artifacts, such as antique documents, medals, uniforms, and war trophies. Of special note is the Arturo Prat room with artifacts salvaged from the Esmeralda, including a barnacle-covered clock registering the moment the ship was sunk during the War of the Pacific.

Palacio Lyon

This grand, 50-room palace was built as a residence in 1881, but today houses both the Museo de Historia Natural and the Galería Municipal de Arte de Valparaíso. The natural history museum is a dusty, oddball collection of stuffed and mounted birds and animals mixed in with odd artifacts that include a two-headed baby marinating in a bottle of formaldehyde. Visitors will get the feeling that the museum means well, but it obviously suffers from a lack of funds. The art gallery holds changing exhibits inside the palace's wonderfully spacious basement.

Museo del Mar Lord Thomas Cochrane

High atop Cerro Cordillera sits Lord Cochrane's Museum of the Sea inside the old residence of Juan Mouat, who built the house in 1841 in colonial style with all the trimmings, including its own observatory. Now it houses a display of model ships once owned by Lord Cochrane. If the theme doesn't interest you, the dramatic view will.

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