
Valparaiso: Attractions
La Sebastiana
La Sebastiana is one of poet
Pablo Neruda's three charming homes that have since been converted
into museums honoring the distinguished Nobel Laureate's work
and life. Neruda usually spent New Year's here for the spectacular
firework display he was able to view from the home. La Sebastiana
is exceptionally enjoyable because the staff allow visitors to
wander about freely without an accompanying guide.
There are self-guiding information
sheets in a variety of languages that explain the significance
of important documents and items on display, as well as Neruda's
whimsical collection of eccentric knickknacks culled from his
journeys through the Americas and abroad. Neruda called himself
an "estuary sailor"--although terrified of sailing,
he nevertheless was fascinated by the sea, and he fashioned his
homes to resemble boats, complete with porthole windows. A cultural
center has been built below the house, with a gallery and a gift
shop. Don't miss this fascinating attraction.
The walk from Plaza Victoria
is a hike, and you might want to take a taxi. From Plaza Ecuador
there's a bus, Verde "D." Or you might opt to take La
Cintura, or "The Belt," a bus route that takes riders
up and down and around the snaking streets of Valparaíso
and eventually stops a block or so from Neruda's house (be sure
to tell the driver that's your final destination because the bus
continues on). The bus leaves from Plaza Echaurren near the Customs
House (La Aduana), and is called Bus Verde "O."
Museo Naval y Marítimo
This fascinating museum merits
a visit even if you do not particularly fancy naval and maritime-related
artifacts and memorabilia. The museum is smartly designed and
divided into four salons: the War of Independence, the War against
the Peru-Bolivia Confederation, the War against Spain, and the
War of the Pacific. Each salon holds interesting artifacts, such
as antique documents, medals, uniforms, and war trophies. Of special
note is the Arturo Prat room with artifacts salvaged from the
Esmeralda, including a barnacle-covered clock registering the
moment the ship was sunk during the War of the Pacific.
Palacio Lyon
This grand, 50-room palace
was built as a residence in 1881, but today houses both the Museo
de Historia Natural and the Galería Municipal de Arte de
Valparaíso. The natural history museum is a dusty, oddball
collection of stuffed and mounted birds and animals mixed in with
odd artifacts that include a two-headed baby marinating in a bottle
of formaldehyde. Visitors will get the feeling that the museum
means well, but it obviously suffers from a lack of funds. The
art gallery holds changing exhibits inside the palace's wonderfully
spacious basement.
Museo del Mar Lord Thomas
Cochrane
High atop Cerro Cordillera
sits Lord Cochrane's Museum of the Sea inside the old residence
of Juan Mouat, who built the house in 1841 in colonial style with
all the trimmings, including its own observatory. Now it houses
a display of model ships once owned by Lord Cochrane. If the theme
doesn't interest you, the dramatic view will.
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