Within Cusco
Plaza de Armas
This pleasant square is in
the same position as the main square of Inca Cusco, although it
is only half the size, with the original square including what
is now Plaza Regocijo. The Plaza de Armas is surrounded by many
attractive colonial buildings, where there are now bars, restaurants
and shops. However, it is the Cathedral and the Iglesia de La
Compañía, which are the highlights of the square.
Some Inca walls remain, notably those of the palace of Pachacutec
which were found in the Roma restaurant on the plaza's western
corner. The quiet pedestrian alleyway of Loreto, both sides of
which have Inca walls, is a pleasant means of access to the plaza.
The Cathedral
It is said to be built on the
site of the Inca Viracocha’s palace. It is a fine church
with a good collection of religious paintings, and it is worth
taking a guided tour. The Cathedral is included in city tours
offered by most travel agencies, which also include the four nearby
ruins and the temple of Qorikancha. The Cathedral was under restoration
from 1997 to 2002. Among the highlights in the Cathedral are the
altar used in the procession of Corpus Christi, with an image
of St James on a horse stamping on a sinner with remarkably Indian
features. The base of the altar weighs 2 ½ tonnes, and
is solid silver. The main altar in the Cathedral is highly baroque
and is also solid silver, weighing 3 tonnes. One of the most famous
images in the Cathedral is that of the Señor de los Temblores
(Lord of the earthquakes). This image of Christ was said to have
calmed the major earthquake of 1650, and every Easter Monday it
is paraded through the streets of the city. The Señor de
Los Temblores has dark skin, which many claim was to help the
indigenous population identify with the Catholic faith. However,
another version is that the Christ was originally white, but candle
smoke has tainted the wood.
Inca ruins at Coricancha
The most interesting, and important,
building in Cusco is the colonial monastery of Santo Domingo,
built on the foundations of Qorikancha (courtyard of gold), the
most important religious site in the Inca Empire. Although the
colonial monastery and church are interesting, it is the remains
of the Inca buildings that are the true attraction. This was the
location of the most important temples in all of the Inca Empire,
which included the Temple of the Sun, Temple of the Moon, Temple
of Thunder and Lightening, Temple of the Rainbow and temples to
various stars. Originally, the temples were covered in gold and
silver, and there were many jewels throughout the buildings. There
was an enormous gold disc, representing the sun, which was used
to reflect the rays of the sun into the Temple of the Sun. This
must have been an incredible sight, especially as the sun reflected
off all the golden surfaces that previously covered the walls.
Most of the gold and silver objects were removed from the temples
when the Spanish were collecting the ransom for Atahuallpa’s
release, and were later melted down, destroying the amazing pieces
forever. However, it is said that the Incas in Cusco did not hand
over the giant sun disk, which is to this day hidden away somewhere
in Peru. In addition to all the temples, there was a ceremonial
garden by Qorikancha. It is said that this contained representations
of crops in gold and silver. Today, a silver cob of corn can be
seen in the nearby museum.
Archaeological Museum
The Museum contains a fine
archaeological collection from all over Peru. It is housed in
the Admiral’s Palace, although the building has been expanded
with a modern section. The museum has a very good section on the
pre-Inca cultures in the Lake Titicaca and Cusco areas, and has
some exquisite Wari turquoise mini-sculptures found at Pikillaqta.
The section on the Inca culture is very good, and there are some
wonderful photos of Machu Picchu when it wasfirst rediscovered.
The ceramics collection is good, as are the bone sculptures, and
there are a few textiles, although not in great condition. There
is also a post-conquest section with some fine colonial furniture.
.
Around Cusco
Ollantaytambo
Ollantaytambo is an attractive
town at the far end of the Sacred Valley. The paved road ends
here, although it is possible to continue down an unpaved road
for a few kilometres. The road to Quillabamba also passes through
here. The train to Machu Picchu passes through Ollantaytambo,
and all trains stop here. The modern town is built on the base
of the old Inca town, and the streets and blocks of the town are
the same as those of the original Inca town. The town has given
itself the title ‘the living Inca town’, and it almost
certainly contains the best examples of Inca buildings still in
use, although they have been modified somewhat. The first metre
or more of the walls of most of the houses behind the Plaza are
original Inca walls, and many of the doorframes are original Inca
doorframes. Wandering around this part of the town gives the best
example of what an Inca town must really have been like.
Macchu Picchu
This is undoubtedly the
best known and most spectacular archaeological site on the continent.
During the busy, dry-season months of June to September, up to
1000 people a day come to visit the Lost City of the Incas, as
Machu Picchu is popularly known. Despite this huge tourist influx,
the site manages to retain its air of grandeur and mystery and
is considered a must for all visitors to Peru. The site is open
daily from 7.30 am to 5 pm, so watching dawn or dusk in Machu
Picchu is difficult unless you arrive via the Inca Trail and camp
at Intipunku. Because the site is surrounded high mountains, you
can see sunrise and sunset over the ruins during visiting hours,
though its already broad daylight when the sun comes up over the
surrounding mountains. The changes in color and light early and
late in the day are very beautiful.
The Inca Trail
This is the best known
and most popular hike on the continent and is walked by thousands
of people every year. The Inca Trail itself climbs steeply up
along the south bank of the Llullucha River. After a walk of about
30 minutes, the river forks. Continue up the left fork for about
500 meters, then cross the river on a log bridge. There are several
flat campsites on both sides of the bridge. The area is known
as 'three white stones'.
This site is usually the first camp for most people who start
from Km88 in the morning. If you arrive without a previously organized
truck, there are several options. You can hike with what you can
carry on your back or you can hire porters, guides and cooks from
an adventure travel agency in Cusco. Many budget travelers hire
just one porter to carry a pack and this is inexpensive. You should
carry a stove (wood is scarce), a sleeping pad and warm bag, and
a tent or other protection from the rain. All this equipment can
be rented inexpensively in Cusco. Also bring insect repellent,
sun block lotion, water purification tablets or iodine and basic
first-aid supplies. Although the total distance is only 33 km,
there are three high passes to be crossed, one of which reaches
a height of 4200 meters The trail is often steep, so don't be
lulled into a false sense of security by the relatively short
distance. Hike prepared.
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