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Tours is the most appealing of
the major Loire cities, thanks to bougeois prosperity, an intelligent
restoration program and a lively university population. It is built
on the site of a Roman town, and became an important center of Christianity
in the 4th century under St. Martin, bishop of Tours. In 1461, Louis
XI made Tours the French capital, and the city prospered on arms
and fabrics. However, during Henri IV's reign the city lost favor
with the monarchy, and the capital left Tours for Paris.
Bombarded by the Prussians in
1870, and bombed in World War II, Tours suffered extensive damage.
By 1960, the middle classes had abandoned the historic center and
it became a slum, full of crumbling medieval masonry. Regeneration
of the city has succeeded due to the popular policies of Jean Royer,
mayor of Tours from 1958 to 1996. Today the restoration is complete,
and the historic center is absolutely stunning.
The pedestrianized place Plumereau
is Tour's most atmospheric quarter, set in the medieval heart of
the city and full of cafés, boutiques and galleries. Streets
such as rue Briçonnet reveal half timbered facades, hidden
courtyards and crooked towers. A gateway leads to place St. Pierre
le Puellier, a square with sunken Gallo-Roman remains and a Romanesque
church converted into a café. A few streets away in place
de Châteauneuf lies the Romenesque Tour Charlemagne, all that
remains of St Martin's first church. Est of here is the interesting
artisans' quarter, centered on rue du Petit St. Martin.
The Cathédrale St Gatien,
in the eastern sector of the city, was begun in the early 13th century
and completed in the 16th. Its flamboyant Gothic facade is blackened
and crumbling but still truly impressive, as are the medieval stained
glass windows.
Tours also has several unusual
museums. Considered the finest Renaissance building in Touraine,
the Hotel Gouin was a silk merchant's house and is now the archaeological
museum, filled with medieval statuary. The Musée de Beaux
Arts, set in the former episcopal palace, overlooks classical gardens
and a giant cedar of Lebanon. Its star exhibits are "The Resurrection"
and "Christ In The Garden Of Olives" by Mantegna, but
more typical are the Loire landscapes and portraits. The Historial
de Touriane in the nearby Château Royao is a perfect introduction
to the Loire, with 165 was figures animating 15 centuries of local
history.
Due to a large university population,
Tours also has an abundance of interesting bars and a lively nightlife.
During the days one can choose from any number of quaint cafés
and charming little restaurants.
Finally, Tours itself is a great
jumping off point for interesting sites in France. Some of the best
places to visit are in the Loire region where Tours itself is located.
For centuries, the Loire River was the area's principal means of
transportation and an important barrier against invading armies.
Towns arose at strategic bridgeheads, and fortresses—the earliest
châteaux—appeared on the slopes of towering hills. The
Loire Valley was hotly disputed by France and England during the
Middle Ages; it belonged to England (under the Anjou Plantagenet
family) between 1154 and 1216 and again during the Hundred Years'
War (1337–1453). It was the example of Joan of Arc, the Maid
of Orléans (scene of her most stirring victories), that crystallized
French efforts to expel the English.
The Loire Valley's golden age
came under François I (1515–47), flamboyant contemporary
of Henry VIII. His salamander emblem can be seen in many châteaux,
including Chambord, the mightiest one. He hired Renaissance craftsmen
from Italy and hobnobbed with the aging Leonardo da Vinci, his guest
at Amboise. Although the nation's power base shifted to Paris around
1600, aristocrats continued to erect luxurious palaces along the
Loire until the end of the 18th century.
We are confident that you will
find Tours and the Loire Valley to be a wonderful place to begin
your discovery of France.
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