Nightlife
Santiago’s
after-hour activities are concentrated in the Bellavista district,
regarded as the city’s artistic quarter and home to many
of its most popular bars, restaurants and discos. Its main drag
is the Calle Pio Nono, a lively but tacky strip through the heart
of the area, and the street of choice for large gangs of local
youths out on the town. Bellavista is widely regarded as having
gone downhill in recent years (a trend popularly blamed on the
drugs trade) and visitors may find themselves warned against going
there after dark. It is also fair to say the district no longer
deserves its reputation as the epicentre of Santiago bohemia,
having succumbed to the commercialisation of its image. It is
still worth a visit, however, at least for the experience of watching
young Santiago at play in one of the numerous and overpriced bars
along Calle Pio Nono. A redeeming feature of the area is its eccentric
street theatre, which often continues until dawn. Throughout the
night, the handicraft and souvenir vendors also hawk their wares
to anyone prepared to carry such curiosities as stuffed tarantulas
around the bars with them.
A reasonable-sized beer along
Calle Pio Nono will be at least Ch$1000 but is more likely to
cost double this figure. Meanwhile, the tidy middle-class district
of Nunoa, to the south of Providencia, is gaining in popularity
as a place for a night out among young sophisticates and students
disaffected by the kitsch of Bellavista. The best bars offering
a much quieter scene are to be found around the Plaza Nunoa. More
upmarket watering holes can be found in the area around Avenida
Suecia in Providencia, popular with the yuppie set and ex-pats
alike.
Chile’s legal drinking
age is 18 years – a rule strictly adhered to in most establishments.
There are no licensing hours in operation and most establishments
stay open until around 0700. A good online listings magazine for
Santiago is available online (website: www.panoramas.cl).
Bars
Boomerang
Pub, Calle General Holley 2285, offers live music on most
nights. Admission is free Sunday to Thursday but Ch$4000 on Friday
and Saturday, and drinks come at a premium. Also well established
among the foreign community and their well-heeled Chilean colleagues
is the Red Pub, Avenida Suecia
29. A long established institution among homesick Brits is the
Phonebox Pub, Avenida Providencia
1670. This is as close as Santiago gets to the atmosphere of an
authentic ‘local’ serving Chilean lager in pint glasses,
with a collection of real ale beer mats stuck to the walls. Santiago’s
newest and most fashionable night venue is the Paseo
San Damian, a precinct of bars, restaurants and nightclubs
in the eastern suburbs, at Avenida Las Condes 11271. In order
to keep the riffraff out, the location is deliberately hard to
reach without a car and is a good place to spot Chilean celebrities.
Casinos
The only serious gaming facilities
are to be found in the millionaires’ playground of Viña
del Mar. The best known such establishment is the Casino
Viña del Mar, Avenida San Martin 199 (tel: (32)
500 600; fax: (32) 500 701; website: www.casino.cl). This establishment
operates a formal dress code and a minimum age of 21 years. Foreign
visitors are required to show their passports to be admitted.
Clubs
The
city’s most popular night spots at the time of writing are
La Casa, Calle Pio Nono 398
(admission is Ch$3000), a huge establishment equipped with state-of-the-art
lasers and playing European club anthems, and OZ,
Calle Antonia Lopez de Bello 114 (admission is Ch$13,000), also
popular among techno fans. Similar sounds can be heard at Blondie,
Avenida Bernardo O’Higgins 2879, and Laberinto,
Avenida Vicuna Mackenna 915. Also rising to prominence as a place
for young Santiago to go out dancing, is Disco
PubEntre Negros, Avenida Suecia 186 (admission is Ch$10,000).
Live music
Boomerang
Pub, Calle General Holley 2285,
offers live music on most nights. Chile has a handful of pop groups
that have achieved a measure of success across Latin America.
The best known of these is Los Tres (The Three), who have a repertoire
of inoffensive rock owing a lot to acoustic instruments. International
repute in non-Hispanic countries has unfortunately so far evaded
Chilean bands. Visiting superstars usually play their gigs at
the National Stadium, Avenida Grecia 2001 (tel: (2) 238 8102),
or the Teatro Municipal, Calle Agustinas 749.